August 22, 2021

Plitvice Lakes, Croatia – Everything you need to know for your visit

What is Plitvice Lakes?

Plitvice Lakes National Park is the oldest and largest national park in Croatia, and one of those magical places that you’ll remember for a long time after visiting. The park has magnificent waterfalls, turquoise lakes, and the contrasting green shades of the surrounding forests make it look like a true natural wonder. The park also known as the jewel of Croatia, which is easy to understand once you’re there.

Plitvice Lakes is located in the remote countryside about 2,5 hours from the Croatian capital of Zagreb, and 3,5 hours from the country’s second largest city, Split. Plitvice Lakes consists of 16 large lakes, which are connected through waterfalls, caves and foaming rapids.

Below you’ll find my full guide to Plitvice Lakes which includes everything you need to know to make the most out of your visit. You’ll get tips on how to plan your trip, how much time you should spend there, where to stay (and what hotel you shouldn’t stay at), the best waterfall, what you should bring, how to get tickets, and plenty of other details. I’ve seen a few guides on Plitvice Lakes, and mine is by far, the most extensive one. It covers everything you need to know. Keep on reading below!

Where is Plitvice Lakes National Park located?

Plitvice Lakes is located in the mountainous region of central Croatia. The nearest larger cities are Zagreb and Zadar. The road (A1) that passes through Plitvice Lakes connects the Croatian inland with the Croatian Adriatic Coastal Region. You can check out the parkland the neighboring regions on Google Maps here.

How much time do you need in Plitvice Lakes?

The amount of time you should spend at Plitvice Lakes depends on two factors:

  1. How much time can you spend there? Usually, a trip to Plitvice Lakes is part of the itinerary for a larger trip that features other destinations as well. How much time of your trip are you ready to allocate towards the park? How well does it fit in with the rest of your itinerary?
  2. What do you want to get out of your visit? Are you an avid hiker planning to explore the whole region? Will you travel with kids? Do you want to see the main sights without dedicating a full day to the park?

The reality is that the amount of time you should spend at the park depends on you, your plans and the group that you are travelling with. You can spend everything between two hours, to a week in the Plitvice Lakes region, depending on your interests and priorities. However, based on my own experience, and the fact that it’s remotely located and slightly challenging to plan for logistically, I think it’s a good idea to at least give it a full day, especially since you’ve already decided that you’re going to spend the time, effort and money to visit. Why not try and get the most out of it?

With a full day at the park at your disposal, you will have enough time to explore both the Upper and Lower Lakes and get a good lunch break without rushing through it. The hikes are easy for all ages, and will take around 6-8 hours. If you’re an avid hiker, you can explore the more remotely located hiking paths of the park, and spend additional days exploring the region. On the other hand, if you just want to take a peek at the highlights, stick to the Lower Lakes portion of the park, and the hike will take about three hours. That way, exploring the park as a small pit stop on the road between Zagreb and Zadar, becomes a realistic option.

You can be based in Zagreb, Zadar or Split and visit Plitvice on a day trip, but I do not recommend it. Transportation will eat a lot of your time at the park, and you will only see it during peak hours. It will also be a tiring day. Your best option to get the most out of your visit would be to stay overnight. Then, you will get the chance to start early at the park, or enjoy a late evening there when it’s less crowded.

The park is home to over 90 waterfalls of all sizes

How to get to Plitvice Lakes

There are many options when it comes to transportation. However, when making your choice, your main question should again be, how much time can, and do I want to spend at the park?

Travelling by car

The most comfortable way to travel to Plitvice Lakes, is by car. You can rent one in most major towns in Croatia. The drive to the park is uncomplicated, and you’ll be able to get there at your own pace. We rented our car through XL Rent a Car in Split, and drove to Plitvice Lakes from there. I’d definitely recommend renting a car and drive to the park independently. However, if you’re not comfortable renting a car, there are plenty of other good options.

If you’re driving, please note that the E65, which you should use when coming from the south, is a toll road. You can pay the fare with cash or card. However, the fees are heftier than you might expect, up to about 200 kunas depending on where you entered the highway. The road is, however in tip-top shape and there are plenty of gas stations with clean toilets and rest stops along the route. However, you will not find many fun places to stop at, and if you’re looking for a McDonalds or any international food chain for a treat, you’re out of luck.

When it comes to renting a car, I wouldn’t recommend choosing XL Rent a Car. Our experience was acceptable and the rental was affordable. However, the car (a MiniCooper) was considerably older than the typical car that you would typically rent at the airport. To me, it’s important with a modern car, mostly for safety reasons. Also, car pickup and drop-off were far from the actual XL Rent a Car offices which was a bit inconvenient. We had to walk quite a bit to a free parking lot to get our car in Split, carrying all of our luggage, which we didn’t foresee or appreciate.

Parking at Plitvice Lakes costs 8/10 kunas per hour for a personal car. The price depends on the season. If you’re going to park, ensure that you get to Plitvice early as the parking spaces fill up quickly. Preserve your energy for walking in the park, not navigating a giant parking lot. When it comes to parking, staying overnight within walking distance from Plitvice Lakes will be preferable, as you won’t have to drive to the park, worry about finding a spot or any associated costs.

On the E65 route to Plitvice Lakes from Split, Croatia

Travelling by bus

If you’re not comfortable driving to Plitvice Lakes, don’t let it stop you from visiting the area. There are public buses operating to the lakes from cities such as Zagreb, Split and Zadar. If you’re travelling during high season, buy the tickets a few days in advance to secure your spot. One of the most popular booking sites for long-distance buses within Croatia is Getbybus.

The bus stop for Plitvice Lakes is right outside Entrance 1. I would advise you to double check departures etc, as operation schedules might be inaccurate due to Covid-19. If you opt for the bus, I would advise you not to travel to and from Plitvice Lakes within the same day as the buses make stops along the way. On average, a bus from Split takes around 4 hours which will eat much of your park time. The little time that you will have in the park will be during peak hours, and those are the least desirable hours to be there.

Give yourself the luxury to stay overnight. Then, you will at least have a peaceful morning or evening at Plitvice Lakes. Keep in mind that you might have to walk from the bus stop to where you are staying unless your accommodation provides any alternative transportation. There aren’t many taxis in the area, so pick your accommodation wisely (more on that below). If you are only looking to visit Plitvice Lakes as a day trip, it’s better to book a guided tour, as these buses don’t make stops on the way.

The layout of the buses to Plitvice Lakes vary, but do not expect premium buses with TVs, Wi-Fi, and washrooms. Make sure that you plan your bathroom visits and charging of devices accordingly.

Should you take a guided tour to the lakes or visit on your own?

Plitvice Lakes is a fairly simple excursion once you’re there, but getting there is a hassle. The question of whether you should take a guided tour or not depends on how much time you can dedicate to the park and how you’re planning to get there. If you’re not planning to visit by car, a guided tour is the most efficient way to visit the park, as they will arrange the transportation for you. I like to use GetYourGuide to book arranged tours and guides, and they have plenty of options for Plitvice as well. However, before booking a tour, keep the following in mind:

Navigating the park

Plitvice Lakes is divided into two sections, the Upper and Lower Lakes. In total, there are 16 lakes and over 90 waterfalls. The park covers over 300 000 hectares. The Upper Lakes section is significantly larger than the Lower Lakes, meaning that you will need more time for that area (see map below). The upper Lakes is less dramatic and mind-blowing to explore than the Lower Lakes. The most dramatic waterfall in the park is Veliki Slap, which is also Croatia’s largest waterfall. It is located near the very edge of the Lower Lakes section. The Lower Lakes is nestled between canyon walls and it’s where the two lakes Gavanovac and Kaluderovacs meet.

Plitvice Lakes Map
Map of the Upper and Lower Lakes at Plitvice Lakes National Park
These are the signs you’ll see at many places around the park directing you towards food, toilets, stations and exits.

There are three entrances to Plitvice Lakes. If you begin with the Lower Lakes, you’ll start at Entrance 1 at the northern edge of the park. The walk begins along the side of the mountain and you get a magnificent bird’s eye view of the area. The path will lead you down towards a wooden walkway leading right through the most dramatic portions of the park. That’s why it’s a good to stick with the Lower Lakes if you are short on time or just want to cut through and get the most out of the experience without spending a full day at the park.

There are three main checkpoints at Plitvice Lakes. These are named P1, P2 and P3. The entrances to the park, are aligned with the stations for using the shuttle and the ferry (more info below), these are St 1, St 2 and St 3.

In the park, there are eight well-marked self-guided make routes/hikes or programs, that you can combine depending on how much time you want to spend at the park. The distances vary between 4 to 18 km. Programs A,B and C start at entrance one while programs E,F and H start at the southern entrance of the park (entrance 2) and run in the opposite direction. Program K lets you hike through the entire park. There are four additional hiking trails for more experienced hikers which go through quieter areas of the park. However, don’t attempt to hike these unless you’re an experienced hiker with appropriate equipment and clothing.

If you’re planning to see the entire park and visiting the Upper and Lower Lakes, combine program C and H. Then, you’ll also get to ride the electric boat. The total distance of program C and H is estimated to be around 11 km and will take around 6-8 hours to complete. This is probably the most effective way to see the most of the park within the same day.

Boats and buses

Luckily, there are more options than walking when it comes to getting around the park. The electric boat operating every 30 minutes across Kozjak Lake (at the very center of the park), and also a shuttle bus. You have boats and buses included in your ticket price, so make sure to use them for large distances so you can cover more ground and save your energy.

The line for the electric boat can be long during summer, so get in line right away when you get to the station to secure your spot. I highly recommend taking the boat as there’s a lot of ground to cover at the park, and you’ll get a scenic view from a unique perspective. Keep in mind that, during Covid-19, a face mask is mandatory on buses and boats.

It is also possible to rent a row-boat near Entrance two, (70 Kunas for the first hour, and then the hourly price decreases). That gives you the option to explore the lake from the water. Don’t forget to bring the sunscreen and a hat if you’re going during summer.

Toilets, food and shopping

Plitvice Lakes is well-equipped with several toilets, food spots and shopping opportunities. The toilets are clean and pleasant to use. They are located around each one of the checkpoints, as well as the transport stations.

P3 is the main resting area at the park. Here you’ll find a few food options and a souvenir shop which I highly recommend checking out. This is also a great opportunity to grab an ice cream or a quick bite before continuing in the park. The food options at Plitvice Lakes are scarce, especially during Covid-19. Prices are higher than average since there’s no real competition. During our visit, we had lunch at Bistro Kozjacka, which served poorly cooked burgers and acceptable fries. When it comes to food, don’t expect too much from the park.

If you want to know more about how travelling in general works during Covid-19, I’ve created a blog post covering that in relation to my trip to Italy last summer, which you can find here. Travelling around Croatia was very similar to last year’s Italy experience and you will find plenty of useful information for your trip.

Swimming in Plitvice Lakes

Plitvice Lakes has UNESCO World Heritage status, which means that extensive measures are being taken to keep the park clean, despite the millions of visitors that come each year. One of the most frequently asked questions about Plitvice Lakes, is whether it’s possible to swim in the emerald green waters. The answer is no, Plitvice Lakes is a walking-only excursion.

If you’re looking for a similar experience that involves swimming, I’d recommend checking out Krka National Park, which is around two hours south of Plitvice Lakes (about an hour north of Split). To be honest, I’ve heard mixed reviews of Krka National Park. Krka is supposedly a stunning national park, however just like Plitvice, it gets very crowded during summer. As swimming is permitted at Krka, there’s too much people, and it supposedly ruins much of the nature experience.

What you shouldn’t miss at the park

If you are limited on time, prioritize the Lower Lakes and Veliki Slap (The Great Waterfall). This portion of the park is smaller than the Upper Lakes and you’ll get to see the best highlights concentrated within a 2-3 hour hike. The Upper Lakes area of Plitvice Lakes spans across a larger surface. Therefore, highlights take more time to reach. If you start at station three and walk in an eastern direction around the lake towards P2, and then take the boat to P1, you will get to see the best parts of the park. That can be done in about 4 hours or half a day.

Getting the best photos of Veliki Slap, The Great Waterfall

Veliki Slap is Croatia’s largest waterfall and it thunders down 78 metres. This is also the most popular photo spot in Plitvice Lakes. Getting a photo without other tourists can be challenging. However, there is one sneaky trick to get an unobstructed photo of yourself with the waterfall.

If you look closely near the entrance of the Veliki Slap area, you will find a narrow set of steps to the left. There is also a sign saying that it’s not a pathway. Climb the stairs to get access to a lofty viewpoint, which will give you a new perspective of the majestic waterfall. On top of that, you will easily be able to get unobstructed photos, both with, and without people in them.

When to visit the park

Plitvice Lakes is magically beautiful during any time of the year. Each season adds its own charm to the park, and people recommend that you try and visit the park in each season to enjoy the beauty to the fullest. However, since that’s not possible for everyone, I’ll give you my tips to help you decide when to visit.

Summer is peak holiday time for Europe, and Plitvice Lakes is incredibly crowded at this time of the year. Since the lakes are located in central Europe, there are plenty of people who live only hours away by car. It’s therefore an incredibly popular summer activity, especially for German and French tourists. If you go during summer, pick early or late summer if you can. If you’re going during peak season, here’s what to expect and how to make the best of it:

You will have to be prepared and accept that the park will be crowded during most of the day. You have to get up early to get somewhat of a peaceful experience. By early I mean be at the park by 7AM. The park was already crowded at the best spots at 8:30 AM when we visited. If you’re looking to see the park in a peaceful state, allocate the morning hours to the section of the park that you’re most interested in seeing. Plan your route beforehand, and prepare everything in advance so you’ll manage to get there early. The park is too large for you to see it in a peaceful state for more than 2-3 hours in mornings and evenings.

During summer, humidity tends to be high. Temperatures range between 20-30° Celsius. During our particular visit, temperatures were around 24-25° which was perfect. However, nights in Plitvice are a lot chillier than at the coast because of the high altitude. Don’t expect it to be warmer than 10-15° Celsius. Check the weather apps prior to visiting Plitvice as well. There was a storm at Plitvice Lakes during the time we were supposed to visit the area, so we decided to rebook our car and hotel stay so that we could postpone the trip and get perfect weather.

You can also pick a wholly different season than summer to visit Plitvice Lakes. The park might be cold during winter, but some of the waterfalls will be frozen and snow will be lying on the ground. Google winter at Plitvce Lakes, and you will see that it looks absolutely magical. However, the ice can make the walking paths very slippery. The minimum temperature during winter is around -4° C so dress warm.

Opening hours and tickets

The opening hours and ticket prices for Plitvice Lakes vary depending on the season. It is usually cheaper to visit for children, students etc, so check that before paying for your ticket. For current and up to date information about prices and opening hours, check out the Plitvice Lakes National Park website HERE. Availability of tickets are limited and divided in time slots. You have to book your tickets at least a day in advance, and even earlier if you are a larger group hoping to secure a certain time slot. On the Plitvice Lakes website, you will also find current information about which restaurants and hotels that are open.

Keep in mind that the shuttle and boat will operate on a schedule that’s not fully aligned with the opening hours of the park. The staff members will be able to provide you with a current departure schedule.

What to bring for your visit

There are plenty of lists available for what you should take with you to Plitvice Lakes. Most of them are slightly exaggerated. The reality is that everything you bring, you will have to carry. The more that you’ll carry, the less you will enjoy your time at the park. Prioritize and eliminate items that you don’t find necessary. The packing list also changes with the season. Below are, however a few things that are good to have for a summer visit:

The ideal bag for the day would be a backpack of a size that you can comfortably wear on your shoulders. If you don’t own a backpack,it’s a good idea to invest in one.

Where to stay (and not to stay) when visiting Plitvice Lakes

Just like hen you make your other choices for visiting Plitvice Lakes, you’ll have to navigate your priorities when it comes to where you should stay. Personally, location was key for us. We wanted to have the park within walking distance, and made the accommodation choice based on that. I would, however have prioritized differently after experiencing Hotel Jezero, which was the only option open at the park at the time of our visit. THESE are the hotels that are situated within the park.

The next thing that I’m going to share is difficult to research ahead of your trip. Most blogs don’t cover it, and many of the reviews that I’ve seen of both food in the park and at Hotel Jezero are inflated, to say the least. It might be cultural, or that this part of Croatia is less developed, but this region is vastly different from the coast. The quality of both food and accommodation drops quite heavily as you enter this part of the country. The difference is not connected with pricing whatsoever. Hotel Jezero was very expensive for what it was and the same goes for the food. In general, it was much easier to find great, affordable food and accommodation options along the Croatian coast.

Hotel Jezero entrance
The entrance of Hotel Jezero

Hotel Jezero

Hotel Jezero is a four-star (or 3,5 depending on the source) hotel situated right next to Plitvice Lakes National Park . The property is huge, and judging by the interior, it had its best days during the 1960’s or 70’s. The hotel does’t seem to have been renovated ever since, and it is one of the most dated properties I’ve seen to this day.

One of the corridors at Hotel Jezero, showcasing the interior design.

Although the property is clean and functioning, it is in desperate need of renovation. During our stay, it felt like we had traveled back in time, and not in a good way. It is hard to spot that the hotel looks that dated when viewing the images available on the website, but I’ve snapped a few that will give you a more transparent idea. If you head over to my stories on Instagram, I’ve also shared a quick room tour in my Plitvice Lakes story highlight.

The best thing about Hotel Jezero is, however the service, and that the Covid-19 measures are strict. The personnel are doing their best to help you and are knowledgeable about Plitvice Lakes and surrounding areas.

It is challenging to try to find food outside of the hotel in these rural areas, so we opted for the half-board breakfast and dinner package at Hotel Jezero. It was a cheap add-on, but drinks were not included. The food that you’ll be receiving is a set three course menu that changes daily. It is edible, but I found the dishes a bit strange, and the flavours were unremarkable.

The rooms at hotel Jezero are no exception when it comes to the era that they’re from and you will not have any AC. The rooms are, however spacious, equipped with a refrigerator. The beds are also comfortable.

The view from our balcony towards Plitvice Lakes. Although these rooms are advertised as Lake view rooms, trees are too thick and too many for you to actually see the lakes.

One of the advantages of staying at Hotel Jezero, other than service, location and free parking, is that they can extend your ticket to Plitvice Lakes National Park for one more day. Essentially, you get a two for one deal. You can ask them to stamp your ticket at the lobby. The hotel is also equipped with a gym, pool and spa. You do, however need a reservation to use the spa, pool and sauna due to Covid-19.

If I were to visit the park again and stay overnight, I’d go for a more modern option as my choice of accommodation. Paying for parking and having to drive to the park is worth the hassle to get a better place to stay for a lower price. However, the location, and maximizing your time at the park is usually more important to a first-time visitor Therefore, I recommend you to weigh in what’s most important to you, and choose your accommodation accordingly. I’ve noticed that it’s overall difficult to find modern accommodation options in this part of Croatia, but after browsing the options that are currently available, I found one that seems like a great choice. Click HERE to check it out and let me know if you try it out and enjoy it.

My top tips for the ultimate experience

There is no ”right” way to visit Plitvice Lakes, it all depends on your priorities. However, the most important thing is that you actually do visit, instead of skipping it due to its remote location. Regardless of how you plan your visit, there are certain things to keep in the back of your mind for a better visit. Below, you’ll find my best tips:

Honey stand Croatia
Typical stand for local cheese and honey. It’s definitely worth the stop. Make sure to have cash, not all of these stands accept cards.

I hope you get a wonderful experience exploring Plitvice Lakes. If you have any questions, I’ll be happy to answer them in the comments!

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About me

Hi and welcome to my travel guide! My name is Beatrice. I’m a lawyer in my twenties living in Stockholm, Sweden. I started Foodie on Vacay because I travel quite a bit, and my trips are always centered around having great food experiences.